Noua mea pasiune pentru sufleuri s-a transformat in ultima saptamana in cautarea sufleului perfect. Ce face un sufleu sa fie atat de crocant si apetisant la exterior, usor si fin la interior...si cel mai important, sa nu se desumfle imediat ce il scoti din cuptor, asta dupa ce l-ai vazut cat de minunat crestea sub caldura cuptorului.
Dupa cateva teste si cautari amanuntite, iata cateva secrete care m-au dus la 4 sufleuri colorate, numai bune de inveselit o masa de toamna mohorata.
Multe ingrediente nici nu sunt - alege-ti legumele preferate, putin lapte si unt, faina sau amidon de porumb, o branza buna, oua si ceva condimente.
Reteta clasica incepe cu o baza de sos Bechamel: untul topit amestecat cu putina faina, la care se adauga treptat lapte, subtiind compozitia si condimentat cu nucsoara, sare si piper. Sosul se imbogateste cu branza rasa - de preferat cheddar sau parmezan - galbenusuri de ou si legumele - pasate sau bucati mai mici. La final se incorporeaza rapid albusurile batute spuma, elementul ce le face atat de pufoase. Compozitia se toarna in forme unse si bine tapetate, iar mai departe, ce iese dupa 45 de minute din cuptor, va fi un sufleu gustos, insa cu o fermitate si o consistenta mai mult sau mai putin satisfacatoare.
Ceea ce face ca un sufleu sa creasca frumos si sa nu se desumfle imediat ce a fost scos din cuptor, se pare ca are in mare parte legatura cu cantitatea de grasime folosita in compozitie.
Astfel, este de preferat sa se foloseasca lapte cu un continut scazut de grasime si chiar elimina untul si galbenusurile din compozitie. Gustul ramane acelasi, e drept ca galbenusul ii da o consistenta mai bogata, de aceea la 3 albusuri aleg sa folosesc doar 1 sau maxim 2 galbenusuri.
Folositi amidon de porumb in loc de faina. Pe langa faptul ca da sufleului fermitate ca sa nu se desumfle imediat, ajuta la stabilizarea grasimilor.
Untul ramane de folosit doar la unsul foarte bine al formelor. Tapetarea cu pesmet din belsug ajuta la formarea crustei crocante.
Asadar, pentru cele 4 sufleuri colorate am urmat indicatiile de mai sus si am ales 2 morcovi potriviti, 3-4 buchetele de conopida si brocoli, 2 sfecle rosii mici.
Fiecare leguma am fiert-o separat, functie de timpul necesar fiecareia. La pasat, am combinat diverse condimente potrivite pentru fiecare in parte:
- morcovul cu ceapa calita, scortisoara, ghimbir si putina zeama de lamaie
- sfecla cu cimbru si lamaie
- brocoli cu ceapa calita, cimbru si o jumatate de lingurita de mustar cu boabe (l'ancienne)
- conopida cu ceapa calita si mustar l'ancienne.
Pe foc mic am incalzit 100 ml de lapte cu 0.1% grasime, amestecand usor 30g de amidon de porumb, nucsoara, ghimbir pudra, putina sare si piper. Luat de pe foc, am incorporat 2 galbenusuri si 100g de branza cheddar razuita. Compozitia am impartit-o egal la cele 4 piureuri de legume.
Inainte de a bate cele 3 albusurile spuma am pregatit formele - unse bine cu unt si tapetate cu pesmet. Spuma de albusuri batuta tare se incorporeaza usor in mixul de legume, pentru a nu pierde aerul. De aceea, din momentul albusurilor, trebuie lucrat foarte rapid.
Formele umplute se baga in cuptorul incalzit la 180C pentru 45 de minute, timp in care se vor umfla si prinde o frumoasa crusta aurie.
Rezultatul: un invelis usor crocant si un interior fin si cremos.
Sufleurile trebuie servite imediat, calde. Eu am ales un sos de branza potrivit pentru toate cele 4 legume.
4 COLORED SOUFFLES
My late crush on souffles turned into a pursuit for the perfect souffle.
What makes a souffle so crispy and appealing on the outside and so soft and light on the inside?
And most important, not to collapse right away, after you just have seen it rising so nicely.
After some research and tests, I've found out some inside secrets that led me to this 4 coloured souffles, just perfect to liven up one grey autumn meal.
Pick up your favourite vegetables, some milk and butter, flour or cornstarch, a good piece of cheese, eggs and some spices.
The classic recipe uses Bechamel sauce as base (melted butter, flour, milk & nutmeg) by adding grated cheese (cheddar or parmesan), yolks and blended vegetables. All mixed with whipped egg whites and poured into ramekins - well greased and covered with breadcrumbs.
What comes out from the oven after 45 minutes, would be a tasty souffle, but not as firm as desired.
The secret of a nice rising and not a sudden collapse seams to be the quantity of fats in the filling.
Avoid fats as much as possible - use low-fat milk, preferably skip the butter and yolks - or use just half of them. The taste would the same!
Use cornstarch insted of flour. Besides giving strenght to the souffle so it doesn't collapse right away, it also stabilize the fats.
Use the butter only for greasen the ramekins. The breadcrumbs provide the crispy coating.
Following all these tips, for my 4 colored souffles I picked up 2 medium carrots, 3-4 cauliflower and broccoli florets, 2 small pieces of beetroot. Each vegetable was boiled or blanch, given each vegetable time for cooking.. When blended, I have added different spices:
- carrots - golden onion, cinnamon, ginger, lemon juice
- beetroot - thyme and lemon
- broccoli - golden onion, thyme, whole grain mustard
- cauliflower - golden onion and whole grain mustard
To the 100ml hot milk mix 30g of cornstarch, some nutmeg, ginger powder, salt and pepper. Add 2 yolks and 100g grated cheddar cheese. I have divided this cheese mixture to the 4 vegetable purees.
Beat 3 egg whites to stiff peaks and incorporate it quickly but easily to the cheesy vegetable mixture. Fill up the prepared ramekins and cook in the oven for 45 minutes on 180C.
The souffles will rise and golden nicely.
The result: crispy coating and a light creamy interior.
The souffles must be served immediately, still warm. I choosed a cheese sauce to suite all 4 vegetables.
