Am inceput acest proiect din dorinta de a invata si experimenta lucruri noi mie in bucatarie mai mult sub o forma de joc, insa pe parcurs nu doar am invatat, ci am devenit mult mai interesata de a cunoaste si a-mi cultiva gustul, devenind totodata mult mai exigenta cu ceea ce ar trebui sa fie un produs final perfect.
Nu stiu daca doar s-a potrivit sau asa a fost sa fie, ca acest proiect sa se termine printr-o experienta minunata care sa dea nastere la un nou proiect. Am simtit ca joaca in mica mea bucatarie are nevoie de experienta cunoasterii si confirmarii de la chefi adevarati - si unde altundeva daca nu in Franta si de catre cine altcineva daca nu de Paul Bocuse, le père de la nouvelle cuisine. Posibilitatea formarii in cadrul Institutului Paul Bocuse a fost mai mult decat o onoare si un vis implinit.
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AM INVATAT... de la doi chefi fantastici
si alaturi de oameni pasionati tehnici si secrete,
AM GATIT... bucatarie contemporana si traditionala,
dar si deserturi frantuzite,
AM DEGUSTAT... vinuri si branzeturi frantuzesti,
fiind atenti la toate particularitatile unui produs de calitate,
dar mai ales AM MANCAT...
in mici bistro-uri cu concepte istete sau restaurante faimoase
premiate cu stele Michelin. Am savurat mancarea cu toate
simturile, invatand din fiecare experienta ceva inedit.
Meniul saptamanii 52 l-am ales din dorinta de a incerca in propria bucatarie doua dintre felurile preferate descoperite in aceasta calatorie gastronomica:
Oeuf coulant en coque croustillante, pousses d'epinard et bisque de crevettes - Ou moale in crusta, spanac si bisque de creveti - Restaurant Saisons, Ecully
Dorade autour du mais - Dorada si concept porumb - Centre de Recherche Institut Paul Bocuse
Oul este foarte des folosit in farfuriile primului fel al unui meniu, cu atat mai mult cu cat implica surpriza unui galbenus moale care curge si se imbina cu un sos sau crema sau el insusi luand locul sosului.
Crusta crocanta este un element foarte la moda in bucataria ultimilor ani, fiind prezenta sub diverse forme in orice tip de farfurie, dulce sau sarata, cu mare impact mai ales in decor si textura.
Bisque-ul, o supa crema de crustacee de origine franceza, isi datoreaza aroma intensa procesului de dubla preparare a crustaceelor - bis cuites - prima, sotarea usoara, urmata de fierberea lor in vin.
Pestele. Unul dintre lucrurile pe care l-am apreciat la acest curs culinar a fost multitudinea de tipuri de peste si crustacee care mi-au trecut prin maini, invatand cum sa alegem un peste proaspat, cum sa-l pregatim si cum sa il gatim. Alegerea pentru saptamana 52 - dorada, gatita la aburi in papillote.
Un concept interesant mi s-a parut alaturarea pe aceiasi farfurie a aceluiasi ingredient preparat sub mai multe forme - aici, un concept de porumb care uneste un piure de boabe de porumb, popcorn, porumb tanar, mamaliga cu lapte infuzat si crusta crocanta de malai.
In ordinea prepararii:
Bisque de creveti
Se soteaza in unt
1 morcov | 1 ceapa | 1 catel de usturoi | patrunjel | cimbru | dafin
Se adauga 18 creveti medii nedecorticati, sotandu-i pana devin rosii - eu am folosit creveti mici congelati.
Se toarna peste 200 ml vin alb, sare si piper, lasand sa fiarba 10 min.
Se scot crevetii, se decorticheaza. Legumele se paseaza, fierband supa crema pentru inca 5 min.
Se da prin sita si se adauga 100-200 ml de lapte sau smantana functie de consistenta dorita si se mai da o data in clocot.
Spanac
Frunzele de spanac fara codite se soteaza intr-o tigaie timp de 2 minute cu putin unt si 1 catel de usturoi. Sare si piper.
Ou fiert moale in crusta crocanta
Oul la temeratura camerei se fierbe 3 minute in apa fierbinte. Se raceste rapid in apa rece pentru a stopa procesul de gatire, se curata coaja.
Se da consecutiv prin faina, ou batut si pesmet, scufundandu-l usor in baie de ulei incins la 180 grade pentru cateva secunde cat sa prinda crusta culoare.
Piure de porumb
1 ceapa | 3 catei de usturoi | 400 g boabe de porumb
se soteaza cateva minute. Se adauga 100 ml de smantana, se da intr-un clocot. Se paseaza, se asezoneaza, se da prin sita.
Mamaliga cu lapte infuzat
Se incalzeste 250 ml de lapte si se lasa la infuzat 15 minute cu 2 frunze de salvie, o crenguta de cimbru si 1 crenguta de rozmarin. Se da prin sita, adaugand putina sare si piper.
Pe foc mic se adauga 50 g de malai, amestecand continuu pana se gateste.
Crusta de malai
150 ml apa | 40 ml ulei de masline | 20 g malai
Compozitia se intinde pe o clatita intr-o tigaie intinsa bine incinsa cu hartie de copt pe fund. Se gateste pana cand apa s-a evaporat si crusta a prins culoare.
Porumbul tanar
Se soteaza putin in unt.
Dorada
Fileurile de peste se sareaza si se stropesc cu ulei de masline. Se aseaza intre doua foi de copt, marginile foii se ung cu albus de ou si se inchide bine perimetral, infasurand marginnile. Pestele in papillote se gateste 10 minute in cuptor la 180 grade. Carnea este extrem de frageda si gustoasa.
Alaturi de porumb am adaugat urechi de lemn, preparatul original folosea minunalele morilles - zbarciogi - insa si urechile de lemn au oferit o textura si un gust interesant farfuriei.
Meniul il inchei cu un desert de bezea frantuzeasca, inghetata de vanilie si compotè de portocale.
Prea dulce pentru gustul meu, am ales totusi bezeaua ca un exponent de top al deserturilor frantuzesti.
Inchid cartea de bucate a celor 52 de saptamani si pregatesc ingredientele unui nou proiect! Cuptor incins.
La bonne cuisine est l'art de donner du gout au bonheur.
Good cooking is the art of giving the taste of hapiness. - Paul Bocuse
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52 weeks in my kitchen at its very last end - la grande finale of a beautiful project!
I have started this project more as a game, willing to learn and experience new things in my small kitchen, but sooner I've became more interested in discovering and cultivating my taste, being also more demanding of how a final perfect plate should be.
Maybe it was fate or just a match that this project happend to end with an amazing experience - the experience of learning from real chefs - and where else if not in France and from whom if not from Paul Bocuse, le père de la nouvelle cuisine. The posibility of studying at Institut Paul Bocuse was more than an honor, a dream come true.
So I LEARNED... from two great cheafs besides passionate happy people,
I COOKED... contemporary and traditional cuisine and frenchy desserts,
I TASTED... french wine and cheese, paying attention to every detail of a fine product,
and not at least, I ATE... in small bistros with clever concepts or famous
Michelin stars awarded restaurants. I enjoyed the food with all my senses,
learning something new from each one.
Week 52's menu is my attempt of recreating in my own kitchen two of some favoured dishes tasted in this gastronomic journey:
Oeuf coulant en coque croustillante, pousses d'epinard et bisque de crevettes - Soft egg in crispy crust, spinach and shrimp bisque - Restaurant Saisons, Ecully
Dorade autour du mais - Sea bream and corn concept - Centre de Recherche Institut Paul Bocuse
The egg is met very often on an entry plate, more even if it implies the surprise of a running yolk that combines with a sauce or creme, or turnes itself into a sauce.
The crispy crust is a trendy element in the late years gastronomy, seen on every kind of salty or sweet plate, with a great impact on decoration and texture.
The bisque is a french creamy soup of shellfish, given its intense flavour to the double cooking proccess of the shellfish - bis cuites - first sauteed in their shell, then simmered in wine.
The fish - one of the things that I mostly appreciated of this cooking course was the diversity of fish and shellfish that passed through our hands, learning how to choose a fresh fish, how to clean it and how to cook it. The choice for 52 week - sea bream, cooked in papillote.
A very nice concept I've discovered was joining one product in different forms on the same plate - here, a corn concept: corn puree, popcorn, baby corn, polenta with infused milk and crispy corn flour crust.
By order of preparation:
Shrimp bisque
Saute in butter
1 carrot | 1 onion | 1 clove garlic | parsley | thyme | bay leaf
Add 18 medium shrimps with shell, cook until red.
Pour over 200 ml of white wine, salt and pepper, simmer for 10 minutes.
Remove the shrimps of its shell, set them aside. Blend the vegetables, boiling the soup for 5 minutes more.
The egg is met very often on an entry plate, more even if it implies the surprise of a running yolk that combines with a sauce or creme, or turnes itself into a sauce.
The crispy crust is a trendy element in the late years gastronomy, seen on every kind of salty or sweet plate, with a great impact on decoration and texture.
The bisque is a french creamy soup of shellfish, given its intense flavour to the double cooking proccess of the shellfish - bis cuites - first sauteed in their shell, then simmered in wine.
The fish - one of the things that I mostly appreciated of this cooking course was the diversity of fish and shellfish that passed through our hands, learning how to choose a fresh fish, how to clean it and how to cook it. The choice for 52 week - sea bream, cooked in papillote.
A very nice concept I've discovered was joining one product in different forms on the same plate - here, a corn concept: corn puree, popcorn, baby corn, polenta with infused milk and crispy corn flour crust.
By order of preparation:
Shrimp bisque
Saute in butter
1 carrot | 1 onion | 1 clove garlic | parsley | thyme | bay leaf
Add 18 medium shrimps with shell, cook until red.
Pour over 200 ml of white wine, salt and pepper, simmer for 10 minutes.
Remove the shrimps of its shell, set them aside. Blend the vegetables, boiling the soup for 5 minutes more.
Pour it through a sieve, add 100-200 ml of milk or cream depending on the needed consistancy, boil once more.
Spinach
Remove the stems of the leaves. Saute in a pan with a little butter and a clove of garlic for 2 minutes. Season.
Soft egg in crispy crust
Boil the eggs 3 minutes in boiling water - the egg has to be at room temperature. Cool it rapidly in icy water to stop the cooking process. Remove the shell.
Pass it consecutively through flour, egg wash and bread crumbs. Cook in hot oil at 180 C for a few seconds until golden.
Corn puree
1 onion | 3 gloves of garlic | 400g corn kernels
Saute all the ingredients for a few minutes. Add 100 ml of cream, boil. Blend, season, sieve.
Polenta with infosed milk
Heat 250 ml of milk and infuse 2 leaves of sage, 1 spring of thyme and 1 spring of rosemary for about 15 minutes. Pour it through a fine sieve, adding sone salt and pepper.
On low heat add 50g of corn flour, mixing until cooked.
Crispy corn flour crust
150 ml water | 40 ml olive oil | 20 g corn flour
Lay the composition as a pancake in a hot pan over a baking paper.
Cook until the water evaporates and the crust gets golden.
Sea bream
Fillet and season the fish. Drizzle with olive oil. Place the fillets between two baking sheets, brush the edges with egg white and fold to seal. Bake in pre-heated oven at 180 C for 10 minutes.
Next to corn I added mun mushrooms, the original dish was served with morels, but the alternative offered a nice texture and taste to the whole dish.
